Southern Barbecue

In the Deep South, Barbecue is a Tradition.

Barbecue Pulled Pork Sandwich                                                                                                         In the South, barbecue rules a cookout at home. And in the Deep South, where I come from, barbecue is long-cooked pork shoulder, not beef as it is in Texas or ribs as in Tennessee or Missouri. That does not mean it is all the same. Though the general cooking method is similar, the sauces served and the manner of presentation differ widely.  Often called pulled pork for the variety torn into small pieces with forks - or fingers. It is the sauces that differ the most, however. In North Carolina the sauce is a thin vinegar sauce containing tomato (often ketchup). In South Carolina, they base the sauce on mustard. Elsewhere, the sauce is likely to be a more familiar, sweet, smoky red sauce. I have made many from scratch, but find none better than those from the supermarket, especially K. C. Masterpiece Original. I use it on everything barbecue sauce can be used for. Legends and mysteries abound in cooking the meat itself. The best cut is the pork shoulder, oddly called the Boston butt, but the front “ham” is second best. You can cook a whole pig for a special occasion, but that is not practical for most people, and a typical pork butt can feed up to two dozen. The pork must be cooked long and slow. That can be a problem for impatient Americans, but there is a way around that: Cook it for a few hours over a smoky fire to infuse flavor, then finish the process in an oven. I do not used this method, because I know the best things come to those that wait - even barbecue. Any way you cook the meat, however, it is a significant time commitment, for you have to start by rubbing the meat with a flavorful mixture, preferably the day before. Fans blow a lot of smoke over the rubs, but the primary components are salt, pepper and hot pepper (cayenne). You can add a bit of sugar, paprika and chili powder and cumin if you want to get a dark, flavorful “bark,” but they are not really necessary - but are preferred by me. A covered cooking chamber is vital, and the optimum source of heat is hickory or hardwood charcoal with chunks of hickory soaked in water so they burn slowly, giving the characteristic flavor. Do not even think about using charcoal impregnated with petroleum or starter to start the fire. Use a chimney, electric ring or propane torch. (Save the charcoal and lighter fluid for the burgers, hot dogs, chops and brats). You can also use a gas grill with wood chunks, if you must. The trick is to keep a relatively cool, smoky fire going, but not have the meat directly over it. Have a disposable aluminum pan underneath to catch the drippings; there will be plenty. After three hours in the smoker oven, wrap the meat tightly in heavy-duty aluminum foil, then roast it in the oven for about three more hours. It will hit about 200 degrees when the meat has cooked long enough to break down connective tissue and make it tender.  Then take it out of the oven, but leave tightly wrapped for a full hour before removing bones and excess fat and pulling or chopping. You will notice that no sauce is used in cooking; it is added later to taste. The traditional wrapper in the Carolinas is white bread slices, but I use hamburger buns, with or without sesame seeds.  A bit of coleslaw is usually added on top of the pulled pork sandwich, often the more common version with mayonnaise - then topped with your favorite sauce. These are messy and require plenty of napkins and eating utensils. The messier the better!   Traditional sides are potato salad, barbecue baked beans, corn on the cob, deviled eggs and thick slices of sweet Vidalia onions, which are seasonal, and come from the state of Georgia. I do not care for onions of any variety, but it is no reason not to serve them.  Sweetened iced tea is served with lemon slices and mint leaves, in Mason jars.                                                           EBL-2011